The Art of the Chill

CandleLight renders cool lifestyle in romantic hues
Ventana Monthly, 4/09

The ice is perfect. It’s actually better than perfect; it’s double frozen and dispensed in immaculate square-inch cubes that melt more slowly than ‘garden-variety’ ice, chilling rather than diluting. These frigid little marvels are the product of Cold Draft technology, executed by a very expensive machine that does one thing, and does it very well – which proves an apt metaphor for the style and service ethic in play at Ventura’s CandleLight Kitchen and Bar, which offers the Cold Draft cubes and has likewise mastered the art of the flourish in its many disciplines, be they sophisticated or mundane. From the ice to the presentation of its sumptuous cuisine to its esoteric and deeply romantic stylings, CandleLight is like a well-tuned hospitality engine, smoothly firing on all cylinders.

CandleLight is the brainchild of Garner Gerson, whose youthful appearance can be deceiving; along with the dashing good looks and offhand charm of the consummate host – a legacy of both birthright and seasoning – he brings an impressive pedigree to the venture as a fourth-generation restauranteur. Gerson’s progenitors first founded the family business the better part of a century ago as a ‘covered wagon club’ that grew into Malibu’s legendary Calamigos Ranch, site of countless weddings and events since that time. The Ranch served as a veritable lab for the perfection of the Gerson family coda in style and service, giving birth to numerous successful spin-off ventures, including CandleLight, first in Simi Valley, and now in Ventura.

Housed in the historic Landmark 78 building – which has been home to a wide variety of kitchens and taverns over the years, from the Big Green House of the 1970’s to, most recently, the aforementioned namesake establishment – in its current incarnation the space has undergone a dramatic re-imagining that both preserves its legacy even as it spins it into a contemporary milieu that offers the best of both worlds.

True to its name, candle light is aptly ever-present throughout the bistro’s many spaces – with some four hundred wicks alight on any given evening – lending an attractive and decidedly romantic hue to both patrons and perspectives, whether in the cozy dining room, the funky ‘eyeball’ lounge or the spacious outdoor lounge, which features a sprawling, twenty-person divan, private curtained cabanas, an expansive deck, heated from below with a cozy sum of nearly one million BTUs and a dramatic, cascading waterfall.

The sweeping restyling of the historic space is emblematic of Gerson’s approach, which emphasizes fresh thought in a comprehensive tableau where people come first, and style exists in service of substance. “We realized early on that we’re in the business of making memories,” Gerson notes. “It’s at the heart of everything that we do, and it all needs to be done right.” Acknowledging that the space has hosted culinary misfires that nearly number in double-digits, he adds, “Unless you re-imagine the establishment from the ground up, how can you expect the result to be any different?” Clearly, the expectations for CandleLight are very different, indeed; with a twenty-five year lease on the property, this is an establishment with every intention of making the long haul – and the signs point to a faith that’s well-founded, despite prevailing economic notions. “We keep a close eye on the industry, and the economy – and sure, times are hard in many places. Look at Campanile, which has been a great success in Los Angeles; their business is down twenty percent over the last year. We just don’t believe it has to be that way – CandleLight in Simi Valley is in its fifth year, and we’re actually up seventy percent.” Gerson’s point is well taken, that a combination of taste and style, sumptuous food and drink and an impeccable service ethic can prove a winning combination in virtually any climate.

Like its stylings, CandleLight’s menus are an esoteric pleasure, at once both sophisticated and casual, offering instant appeal that proves in practice to be well more than hype. Gerson studied the culinary arts in Tuscany, at the renowned Apicius Culinary Institute of Florence, a background that allows him to work as smoothly with the kitchen hierarchy as his practical experience – in the family businesses and in apprenticeship with Bob Morris at Malibu’s Paradise Cove – helps him oversee the establishment’s front-of-house endeavors. “First and foremost, this business is an exercise in team building,” Gerson offers, noting it’s a capacity in which successful restaurants typically excel, while the failure of the endeavor often leads to the failure of the enterprise. “While our businesses are all family owned, we do have equity partners, and in each case they’re former career members of our staff,” he explains, which could be as cogent a recommendation of loyalty as one might imagine.

Gerson concludes that the philosophy behind CandleLight was to offer a romantic lounge – a comfortable place for dinner or drinks, dependable for a certain quality of experience. “We imagined a nice place where ladies could wear their new shoes,” he laughs. Whether they succeeded in that ethic can be clearly seen for oneself on any given evening – simply drop in, with a mind for fine fare, and an eye for the conspicuously feminine and decidedly well-turned heel.